Gilbert Brown tells us how he feels about the sport he holds dear.

An indescribable feeling, that's how we could describe that sensation when you're in the water and you see that precisely at your "spot" the perfect wave of the session is approaching, the one that when you catch it, the first thing that comes to your mind is... yes, this is it.

Surfing may seem like any other sport and be considered a physical activity to improve our mood, our physical condition, or even pursue professionally; however, surfing goes far beyond that. This sport, with over 500 years of history, first practiced in the Polynesian islands and also on the island of Hawaii, transcends the traditional viewpoint, to the point that it was called "The Sport of the Gods ," because initially only noble people could practice it, and it made them feel superior.

Being a surfer, whether competitively or for fun, is more than practicing a sport; it's a lifestyle and a whole world that revolves around it. It's so much so that it has its own greeting that has become popular worldwide and its meaning is "Shaka, brah," which comes from the Hawaiian island and means "Take it easy, friend."

The sport of surfing helps us improve our mental and spiritual condition, because it helps to calm anxieties, face fears and natural risks such as waves, winds and currents, which, when mastered, make it easier to face any situation in daily life.

Some of the benefits of surfing include improved posture, coordination, balance, endurance, and physical fitness, as it involves high-impact physical work on the arms, legs, glutes, and back.

“A true surfer, first and foremost, has to feel the sport, has to be consumed by the desire to be in the water, has to have that burning need where you can't even sleep and you dream of the waves, of that incredible session you always look forward to. Surfing isn't about modeling, and personally, it's not just about surfing small waves, hitting aerials, and things like that. For me, a person who has a true surfer's lifestyle has to be someone who dedicates themselves to finding the waves and the best conditions, regardless of having to sacrifice many things in order to be in the water at the right moment, when the good waves are there,” commented Gilbert Brown, four-time national champion.

Surfing can be practiced from very early in the morning until sunset, although it depends a lot on the tides and the consistency of the waves. However, another natural aspect is the "spot," since sometimes sessions could be carried out throughout the day depending on where you decide to go surfing.

Being a surfer is about understanding life in relation to the sea and nature, its spirituality, and knowing that sometimes, a sacrifice in that search for waves will have its reward.

Written by: Enrique Hernández

General Management: Marco Montero